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Food critics review celebrity chef Heston Blumenthal's new restaurant called Dinner.

the food a thumbs up:

"And what food. The menu provides a tour of this country's culinary past. Each dish is dated approximate to its origins. So there's meat fruit (c1500), savoury porridge (c1660), spiced pigeon (c1780), cod in cider (c1940) and taffety tart (1830). But they are not slavish, painstaking recreations of past glories. Using contemporary techniques and technology, each has been re-engineered for the 21st century. The result is nothing short of astonishing."

that the hype was overcooked:

"The bad news is that for the main course, the 'Powdered Duck' legs seem to have been given some kind of turbo pamper and have been plucked, bathed, glazed and lacquered beyond recognition. It seems a lot of trouble for a muted taste experience."

Chef that the restaurant served the best food he's had in two years:

"Then there is the food and, to start, a dish that was genuinely astonishing. It's described on the menu under starters as "meat fruit", which doesn't sound great.
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"On the outside it looks like a perfect mandarin with textured and brightly coloured peel, as well as a stalk and green leaves. But put your knife in and everything changes. The orange is full of chicken liver mousse with the most fantastic flavour and soft texture.
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"I'm not into gimmicky food but this is the only big trick on the menu and when it tastes that good it's difficult to complain."

that the restaurant brightens up his dreary job as a food critic:

"And just when it was all starting to be a bit normal there was Tipsy Cake, from 1810, with spit-roast pineapple, a pudding like no other. A sort of brioche soaked in angel's spit and spiked with the sugar of unicorn's horn.
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"I am bored to hell with London's top-end restaurants. I wouldn't care if I never ate in another Michelin-starred ponce hole as long as I live.
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"But Dinner, despite its stupid name, changes all that."

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